Whatever you do, you have to think about that one single most important paradigm of life and trading: “Can I Live to Fight Another Day?” After all, survival is for the fittest!
In the wake of the financial crisis I developed the following “trading code of conduct” derived from the lessons learnt. I am advocating using this code of conduct for finding and updating a Trading-set.
The trading code of conduct is very straightforward.
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This is not a “Game!” I am doing it to gain independence and to build wealth over time!
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My assets should always work for me. If an asset does not pay me to hold to it, then I don’t need it.
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Judge fundamentally, and trade technically. After all, it is all about people and the writings were on the wall and before the financial crisis I saw them a year earlier.
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If there is doubt, then Cash is King and for as long as the doubt persists!
In addition, it became clear, that I still practiced some of the stuff I cautioned friends and family and lectured them about, such,
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Judge and act using your own judgment, not according to anyone’s advice
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ETF’s are good for “playing the market” but for assets, you need actual companies, with assets themselves
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Never, ever, fall in love with a company. They will equally fail you, regardless of how much you love them – GE did it for me during the crisis
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Do not buy on impulse, watch the stock for a while for a good technical buy point, and then continue to watch it after the buy for a sell or an add.
Based on that, I developed a simple selection criteria:
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Find a sector/index you fundamentally think should outperform, and convince yourself it is good to be in that sector.
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Find the players in that sector/index and select the best component you can find based on the decision criteria (below)
For instance, after the financial crisis, there was the Swine Flu scare, and I decided that “Death” and “Health” are good sectors. So I bought into these sectors.
The decision criteria is simple. Look at the company market action overview (your brokers site or any reasonable financial website will do, double check if in doubt). There you need to look for:
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Market Cap/Valuation – avoid smaller companies
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Yield – above 10 Year US Treasuries is a strict rule.
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Average volume – you need liquid assets, after all that is why we trade stocks
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Average stock price – above $10 should be a cardinal rule.
If it fails any of the above, then there are plenty of fish in the ocean. Move on!
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Look at the company profile and management, again, any reasonable source would do.
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Is the management diversified?
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Are they overcompensated?
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Do they look like a club or a clan?
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Any red flags on the governance structure?
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Are they new to the company or the sector?
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Who are the competitors, and are there others that look better per above?
Again, if it fails any of the above, then cash is king. Move on!
Check the company financial statistics:
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What is the book value? Enterprise value? Loan to equity ratio?
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What about cashflow? Revenue? Earnings growth?
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Are the returns on investment/equity reasonable? How do they compare to peers?
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Is the yield historically high, and is there a reason for that?
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What is the payout ratio, and how is the company covering the dividend payouts?
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Is there a pattern of stock issuing or borrowing around payout time?
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It is worth visiting the filings pages to check earnings reports and yearly statements at this point, especially if more than one candidate of the same sector is being considered.
Bottom line, if unsatisfied, don’t look into satisfying yourself by talking yourself into the purchase, having someone else talk you into it, or kicking yourself for not doing it. You have to remind yourself that there is plenty of decent and readily available companies on the market.
On this point, to find stocks, I check, and periodically recheck:
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Peer groups for one of the “highly recommended” companies
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Newsletters etc.
But I always do the exhaustive homework. You see, if you limit yourself to what you know, you are bound to cut corners because you end up being stuck with the “best available” rather than the best.
If a company passes the above, it is added to the trading list, and technical analysis starts to see when to buy. Here, I look at:
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7-period Daily 3-EMA (to start with, can use different period if necessary)
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You need to have the EMA’s in right order, with the faster above the slower to be convinced that it is moving in the right direction for a buy (as explained in the Price and Averages post in the Analytics section)
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When was the last “mean-reversion” and how far above or below the EMA’s is the current stock price
Here, there is no hurry. If it is way above EMA’s wait for mean-reversion to happen. If it is well below, then wait till it is moving above. After all, you are going to hold it possibly for months and years, what’s an extra month. If you miss the opportunity, find another one! You know how to do that, don’t you?
Finally,
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Check the Weekly 3-EMA for at least 4-5 years (to cover pre-financial crisis). Here you want to make sure that there is nothing fundamentally wrong, as in something that has been trending downwards for months and years.
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On Balance Volume: I like to see an uptrend, and it is here that I become more interested in support and resistance than I do with the price charts.
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Money Flow; same as OBV.
The bottom line here is that you need to the counter-intuitive, which is to buy on the way up and to sell on the way down. I no longer average down or take profits on the way up.
This takes us to something important that I started practicing strictly:
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I buy and sell percentages of portfolio (translated into dollar amount or number of shares).
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I do not want my held-portfolio to have more than 10-15 issues (15 if there are doubles, like buying VZ and T while deciding which one to keep).
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No point of holding less than 5% of portfolio in any single issue, and no need to hold more than 15% in any single issue.
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I normally nipple while buying but sell in one shot.
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I always keep in mind the opportunity cost, so if a yield drops below 10Yr UST or if they cut dividend, then they are normally gone at earliest possible time (same day usually).
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I no longer over trade. If a holding starts trending down, I don’t sell until it breaks the weekly 3-EMA, possibly with a different periodicity than what I used to buy, even though this means losing part of the profits. I need to be sure that the pullback is not due to the healthy and normal mean-reversion before actually selling a holding.
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If the market is going down, I don’t buy, as most stocks are highly correlated with the market.
This more or less completes the essence or the conceptual series on trading.